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Natural dyes         click here

Types of textile suitable for natural dyeing          click here

Application of natural dyes      click here





Natural Dyes:
Natural dyes are known for their beautiful and multiple shapes. The natural dye system offers the dyer each of use. Natural dyes are non-toxic and highly concentrated. They should not be ingested or come into contact with eyes or skin.
Some well known ancient dyes are described below:
1 ) Madder:
This is the freshly root of the madder plant ( Rubia, Tinctorum ) . Source are red, orange, peach and rust shades. It can be used for 0.5 to 5 % shade on the weight of fibre.
2 ) Indigo:
Blue indigo from Indigofera finctoria yellow from stigmas o the saffrom plant and dogwood and extract of the dogwood tree ( Indian and Pales time origin)
3 ) Tyrian purple:
Noted in the Bible, a dye obtained from the spiny dye mixture shellfish.
4 ) Osage:
Wood of osage bush, source of yellow and ochre. It can be applied from 0.1% to 2% on the weight of fibre.
5 ) Cochineal:
A bright red called cochineal was obtained from an insect nature to Mexico. All produce high quality dark colors.
6 ) Cutch:
This is the heartwood of the tree source of browns. To yield a darker brown the fabric must be oxidize at the last step 2-5% shade can be produced.
Types of textile suitable for natural dyeing :
Natural dyes can be used on most of the textile material, but level of fastness and clarify of color varies considerable. Natural dyes have strong affinity to fibres of animal origin. Natural dyeing of certain plant based textiles can be less successfully than theie animal equivalent.
The equivalents needed for home dyeing ang very small scale commercial dueing with natural dyes are:
        i.            Mordanting and dyeing pans
      ii.            Head source
    iii.            Pestal and mortar
    iv.            Timing rods
      v.            Thermometer
    vi.            Measuring jugs
  vii.            Storage containers
viii.            Plastic bowl and buckets
    ix.            Weight scales
      x.            Protective equipment
Natural dye fall into the following categories:
1.      Leaves or stems
2.      Twigs and pruning
3.      Flower heads
4.      Barks
5.      Roots
6.      Outer skins and husks
7.      Heartwood and wood shaving
8.      Berries and seeds
Application of natural dyes:
Dyeing can be carried out at any of the following stages in the textile manufacturing stage:
        i.            The fibres can be dyed before they are spun. Fibre dyeing provide a deep penetration of the dye into the fibre, giving even color and excellent color fastness.
      ii.            The yarn can be dryed after spinning
    iii.            Fabric can be dryed (piece Dueing). In cross dyeing(one stage blend dyeing) fabrics od two or more fibres can also be dryed so that each fibre accepts a different color, through the use of appropriate dye for each fibre.
    iv.            It is essential for the correct identification of the fibre or fabric to be made before drying starts.

Mordant dyes         click here

Trade names of mordant dyes        click here

Properties of mordant dyes         click here

Classification of mordant dyes         click here

Method of application of mordant dyes         click here

Dyeing of cotton with mordant dye(alizarin dye)         click here







Mordant dyes:
The dyes which have no affinity towards textile fibres and are attached with the fibre with the help of mordants are known as mordant dyes.
Mordant dyes may be organic or inorganic substances. The most commonly used mordant is inorganic chromium. So sometimes these dyes are called chrome dyes.
These dye molecules have some mordant attracting groups which have some influence on secondary valency bonds due to a particular configuration with metal ions so that insoluble color takes are produced. Mainly neighbouring –OH groups or –COOH groups appear in neighbouring position in azo dyes. A metal equivalent takes the place of hydrogen in the –OH group or            -COOH group each time.
The mordants have affinity both for fibre and dye. So those dyes which do not have any affinity to fibres can be applied by using a suitable mordant ( as dyes have mordant attracting groups)
Trade names of mordant dyes:
Trade Name
Manufacturer
Country of origin
Diacromo
ACNA
Italy
Chrome
Ciba
Switzerland
Alizarin
Bayer
Germany
Omega chrome
Sandoz
Switzerland
Basolan chrome
B.A.S.F.
Germany

Properties of mordant dyes:
        i.            Mordant dyes have no affinity for textile fibres.
      ii.            They are attached to the fibres with the help of mordants. these mordant have affinity both for the dye abd fibre.
    iii.            Mordant dyes are capable of combining with metallic oxides to form insoluble color lakes.
    iv.            Mordant dyes may be natural or synthetic.
      v.            Mordant dyes are mostly applied on natural protein fibres, nylon and acrylic fibres.
    vi.            Good light fastness rating about 4-5
  vii.            Most mordant dye are soluble in cold water.
viii.            The main feature of the molecule is that, there remains a metal ion as a central atom which is bonded to neighbouring –OH, -COOH or azo group.
    ix.            Wide range of hues can be produced from mordant dyes. t no good blue, green ang violet are available for wool. Largely used for black shades.

Classification of mordant dyes:
On the basis of origin, there are 2 types of mordant dyes:
1.      Natural mordant dyes
2.      Synthetic mordant dyes
Now they are described below:
1 ) Natural Mordant Dyes:
Very few natural dyes are color fast with fibres. So mordants are used to fix a dye with the fibre. These dyes as derived from natural source e.g. plants, are natural mordant dyes.
Among the naturally occurring dyes alizarin(1,2-dihydroxy anthraquinine) is extracted from the roots of madder. Alizarin produces red, pink, brown and yellowish brown color when treated with compounds of Al, Sn, Fe and Cu respectively.
Dyeing with natural mordant dyes is a time consuming process. So they are used in lesser extent. In all these dyes chromium or other metals combine chemically with certain groups present in dye and further bounded by other force.
2 ) Synthetic Mordant Dyes:
As all synthetic mordant dyes are obtain from acid dyes, they are called acid chrome dyes. That is to say,
 Acid color + Cr -----àAcid chrome
These dyes can co-ordinate easily with chromium. They can be dyed as acid dyes and mordanted by after treatment with K2Cr2O7 or  Na2Cr2O7 .
These acid chrome dyes are extensively used for wool and polyamide fibres dyeing. They have good wet fastness and most of them possess satisfactory light fastness.
The commonest method of application is to dye in an acid dye bath and when exhaustion is complete, add appropriate amount of dichromate to the liquor. Then boil it for 30 minutes
Example of some synthetic mordant dyes are as below:
Dye
C.I> Number
Chrome Fast Orange R
Mordant Orange 10
Solochrome Red B
Mordant Red 9
Eriochrome Black T
Mordant Black 11


Method of application of mordant dyes:
There are three general method of application of mordant dyes as mentioned below:
1.      Chrome mordant process
2.      After-chrome mordant process
3.      Meta chrome or chromate mordant process
Now they are shortly described below:
1 )  Chrome mordant process:
This is a two bath process. In this process at first material is impregnated with an insoluble chromium hydrate and then dyeing is done a separate bath.
2        ) After-chrome mordant process:
This is the oldest and the most common mordant dyeing process. Here the material is first dyed with an acid dye and then mordanting with chromium is carried out in a separate bath. Or mordanting can be done in the same bath after exhaustion of the dye has been completed.
3 ) Meta chrome/chromate mordant process:
In mete chrome process, dyeing and mordanting are carried out simultaneously in the same bath. Here the mordant is present in the form of chromate which does not form the lake with the dye and which is generally converted into dichromate. The pH of the bath is kept around 6-7.This method has the advantage of facilitating shading and requires less time, then the after-chrome process. It gives highly level of residual chromium in the effluent. This method is now almost obsolete.
Dyeing of cotton with mordant dye(alizarin dye):
The dyeing procedure of cotton with mordant dye(alizarin dye) is describe below:
            i.            At first cotton fabric is boiled in the solution of
Ø  1 part TR Oil &
Ø  10 part water for 12 hours.


          ii.            Then the fabric is dried at 40-60°C
        iii.            Treated again with al-acetate at 60°C for 2 hours.
        iv.            Then dry at 40-60°C.
          v.            Again treated with 2 parts Na-phosphate and 10 parts water at 40-40°C for 40 min.
        vi.            1-1.5% dye ( on the weight of fabric) is added in the solution with ca-acetate at room temperature for 30 minutes.
      vii.            Then fabric is hot rinsed (at 70°C) for 30 minutes.
    viii.            Finally the fabric is washed with soap solution and water and then dried.

Disperse dye       click here

Commercial name of disperse dyes      click here

Properties of disperse dye       click here

Classification of disperse dyes       click here

Chemical group present in disperse dye       click here

Dyeing mechanism of disperse dye       click here

Carriers       click here

Some commercial carriers       click here

Factors considered for selecting a carrier       click here

Application method of disperse dye        click here

Factor considered for selection a dispersedyeing method       click here

Comparison among high temperature, carrier andthermosol dyeing method       click here

Reduction cleaning       click here

Disperse dyeing effected by Temperature       click here

Disperse dyeing effected by ph       click here

Dispersing agent        click here

Function of dispersing agent         click here




Disperse dye
The term “disperse dyes” have been applied to organic coloring substances which are free from ionizing groups. They are of low water solubility and are suitable for dyeing hydrophobic fibres. The dye has derived its name for its insoluble acqueous properties and the need to apply it from an acqueous dispersion. Of all the dyes they are of the smallest molecular size.
They have substantivity for one or more hydrophobic fibres e.g. Cellulose acetate, nylon, polyester, acrylic and other synthetic fibres
The negative charge on the surface of hydrophobic fibres like polyester can not be reduced by any names, so non-ionic dyes like disperse dyes are used which are not influence by that surface charge.

Commercial name of disperse dyes :
Name of dye
Manufacturer
Contry of origin
1.      Artisil
Sandoz
Switzerland
2.      Cibacel
Ciba-seigy
Switzerland
3.      Dispersal
ICI
UK
4.      Samaron
Hoechst
Germany
5.      SRA
British celanese ltd
UK
6.      Setile
ACNA
Italy

Properties of disperse dye :
1)      Disperse dyes are non-ionic dyes. So they are free from ionizing group
2)      They are ready made dyes and are insoluble in water or have very low watr solubility. Their solubility is at least 0.1gm/lit
3)      They are organic colouring substances which are suitable for dyeing hydrophobic fibres from colloidal dispersion.
4)      Disperse dyes are used for dyeing man-made , ester-cellulose and synthetic fibres specially acetic and polyester fibres and sometimes nylon and acrylic fibres.
5)      Carrier or dispersing agent are required for dyeing with disperse dyes.
6)      Disperse dyes have fair to good light fastness with rating about 4-5.
7)      The wash fastness of disperse dyes are moderate to good with rating about 3-4
8)      Disperse dyes have the ability to undergo sublimation that is they can be vaporized without fastness or wash fastness for sublimation fastnes of disperse dyes the following cause are responsible
a)      Small molecular size of dye suff
b)       No ionic group
c)      No sulphonated group
Sublimation property of disperse dyes are used in transfer printing. But it is a disadvantageris matter. Because excessive hot ironing or pressing of disperse dyes/printed material may result in color loss.
9)      Of all dyes stuffs disperse dyes are of the smallest molecular size.the size of dye molecules are 2-3 nanometre.
10)  Generally dispwrse dyes are derivative of azo, anthraquinone, nitro and quinine group.
11)  They do not undergo any chemical change during dyeing
Classification of disperse dyes:
1)      Chemical classification :
                               I.            Nitro dyes
Example : dispersal fast yellow A, Serisol yellow 2G
                            II.            Amino keton dyes :
Example : Gelliton fast green 3B
                         III.            Anthraquinonoid dyes
Example : duranol violet 2R, duranol brilliant blue G
                         IV.            Monoazo dyes
Example : cibacel orange 2RD
                            V.            Diazo
Example : celliton fast yellow 5R,
2)      According to fastness properties :
There are four types:-
                                                                                i.            Group A : these dyes have excellent dyeing properties and good fastness. E.g. C.I. disperse Red 5, C.I. disperse Orange 3
                                                                              ii.            Group B : these dyes are excellent in high temperature and for carrier dyeing, with moderate fastness. E.g. Disperse Yellow 1,Disperse Blue.
                                                                            iii.            Group C : these dyes are moderate for carrier and high temperature dyeing with higher fastness properties than Group-B dyes. E.g. C.I disperse Violet 3, Disperse Orange 13.
                                                                            iv.            Group D : these dyes are of excellent high fastness to that but poor dyeing properties on carrier dyeing. E.g. Disperse Orange 32, Disperse Yellow 63.
3)      According to energy requirement :
There are three types :-
                                i.            Low energy dye : these dyes are used to dye with carrier. For dyeing 77degree C temperature is required. They have extremely poor resistance to sublimation.
                              ii.            Medium energy dyes : these dyes are used to dye mostly in between temperature 104 to 10 degree C which provides better sublimation fastness than that of low energy dyes.
                            iii.            High energy dyes :  these dyes are used to dye at temperature above 129 degree C and are suitable for continuous dyeing. They provide good fastness.


Chemical group present in disperse dye :
Monoazo dyes – 50%
Anthraquinonoid dyes – 25%
Diazo dyes – 10%
Methane dyes -3%
Styryl dyes - 3%
Acrylene benzimidazol - 3%
Quinonapthalon dyes – 3%
Amino napthyl amide – 1%

Dyeing mechanism of disperse dye
The dyeing of hydrophobic fabric with disperse dyes may be considered as a process of dye transfer from a liquire solvent ( water ) to a solid organic solvent(fibre).
Disperse dyes are added to water with a surface active agent to form an aqueous dispersion. The insolubility of disperse dyes enablethem to leave the dye liquor as they are more substantive to the application of that to the dye liquor increases the energy of dye molecules and accelerates the dyeing of textile fibres.
Heating the dye liquor swell the fibre to some extent and assists the dye to penetrate the fibre polymer system. Thus the dye nolecule takes its place in the amorphous regions of the fibre.withine the fibre polymer system, the dye molecules are held by hydrogen bonds and van der waals force.
The dyeing is considered to take place in the following simultaneous steps :-
1)      Diffusion of dye in solid phase, into water by breaking up into individual molecules. This diffusion depends on dispersibility and solubility of dyestuff and is aided by the presence of dispersing agent and increasing temperature.
2)      Adsorption of the dissolved dye from the solution onto the fibre surface. This dyestuff adsoeption by in the dye bath and that in the fibre.
3)      Diffusion of the adsorbed dye from the fibre surface into the interior of the fibre substance towards the centre. In normal condition, the adsorption rate is always higher than the diffusion rate. Abd this is the governing step of dyeing.
Carriers:
It has been established that certain hydrocarbons, phenols, amino-acids, amides, alcohols, esters, ketones, nitriles etc. Accelerate the rate of dyeing polyester fibres with disperse dyes from aqueous medium at temperature up to 100 degree C. These dyeing assistants alter the dispersing properties of the dyes and the physical charactistics of the fibre so that more dye can be transferred from the dyebath to the fiber. These are called carriers and are necessary for dyeing polyester fibre at the normal pressure and temperature below 100 degree C to increase the dyeing rate and to permit dye migration within the fibre. Level dyeing of disperse dyes depends on the migration power of dye which is affected by nature and amount of carrier dyeing time, temperature and the shade.

Some commercial carriers :
Commercial name
Manufacturer
Chemical class
1.      Solvent OP
Franco
O.-phenyl phenol
2.      Tumescal D
ICI
Diphenyl
3.      Palanil carrier-A
BASF
Aromatic rther
4.      Carrier PDC
TCC
Emulsifiable solvents
5.       
HAR
Ester
6.      Dilatin TCR
Sandoz
Chlorinated aromatic compound
7.      Involon
Ciba-Ceigy


Factors considered for selecting a carrier:
        i.            High carrier efficiency
      ii.            Availablility at low cost
    iii.            Little or no effect on light fastness of final dyeing
    iv.            Absence of unpleasant odour
      v.            Non-toxicity
    vi.            No degration or discolouration of the fibre
  vii.            Ease of removal after dyeing
viii.            High stability under dyeing condition
    ix.            Compatibility with the dyestuffs
      x.            Easw of dispersion in the dyebath
    xi.            Low volatility of the carrier including low volatility in the steam
  xii.            Uniform absorption

Application method of disperse dye :
1)      Method N : Normal dyeing method, dyeing temperature is 80°-100°C
2)      Normal NC Method : Method of dyeing at normal temperature with carriers. Dyeing temperature 80°-100°C
3)      Method HT : high temperature dyeing method, dyeing temperature 105°-140°C
4)      Method T : thermal dyeing method, dyeing temperare 180°-220°C, continuous method of dyeing.
5)      Pad roll method : semi-comtinuous dyeing method
6)      Pad steam method : continuous dyeing method
Factor considered for selection a disperse dyeing method :                 
        i.            Available of dyeing mechine.
      ii.            Required color effect (dark/medium/light)
    iii.            Required color fastness
    iv.            Types of material to be dyed.
      v.            Cost of dye chemicals and auxiliaries.
    vi.            Overall economy of the system.
  vii.            Dyeing temperature.
Comparison among high temperature, carrier and thermosol dyeing method :
Carrier Method
        i.            Carrier is required, no thickener is used
      ii.            Lower dyeing temperature (80-100°C)
    iii.            Less protection is required
    iv.            Costly as carrier is used
      v.            Less bright shade
    vi.            Toxic and unhygienic process
  vii.            More shrinkage
viii.            Process is batchwise, so production less
    ix.            Removal of carrier difficult and alkali is used for it
      x.            No change in shade
High temperature method
        i.            Neither carrier nor thickener is used
      ii.            High temperature of dyeing (105-140°C)
    iii.            More carefulness is needed
    iv.            Not so costly
      v.            More bright shade
    vi.            Process is batchwise, so production less
  vii.            Non toxic and hygienic process
viii.            Less shrinkage
    ix.            Not applicable\
      x.            No change in shade
Thermosol method :
        i.            Carrier is not used,bt thickener is require is required
      ii.            Very high temperature dyeing (180-220°C)
    iii.            Very much carefulness is required
    iv.            Costly as special machine for dyeing is needed
      v.            Very bright shade is required
    vi.            Process is continuous, so production higher
  vii.            Non-toxic abd hygienic process
viii.            Less shrinkage
    ix.            Not applicable
      x.            Change in shade
Reduction cleaning :
In case of dark shade dyeing we have to use more amount of dye and chemicals. But these chemical should be removed from fabric after dyeing. For this reason a special process is used in case of disperse dyeing. This cleaning process is called reduction cleaning. By reduction cleaning surface dye molecule/ unfixed dye molecules are stripped and this in turn results in leveling. Reduction cleaning also improved the wash fastness property of textile material.

Disperse dyeing effected by Temperature :
In case of dyeing with disperse dye temperature plays an important role.for the swelling of fibre temperature about 100°C is required if high temperature dyeing method is applied. Again in case of carrier dyeing this swelling occurs at 85-90°C . Incase of thermosol dyeing method if temperature is kept more, fabric is kept for less time in thermosol unit. Because in higher temperature, less time is enough for thermofixation of dye. If it is kept for more time at high temperature dye submation and loss of fabric strength occur.
Again thougt disperse dye is a water – insoluble dye, its solubility increases with increasing temperature.
Disperse dyeing effected by ph :
For disperse dyeing the dye bath should be acidic and ph should be maintained in between 4.5 -5.5 . For maintaining this ph generally acetic acid is used. We may also use any mineral acid like H3 PO4 but those are strong andcostly. So mild acid likeacetic acid is used for controlling ph   of the bath. At this ph  dye exhaustion is satisfactory. During color development correct ph should be maintained otherwise fastness will be inferior and color will be unstable.

Dispersing agent :
Disperse dyes are insoluble in water and form an aqueous dispersion in water. At first these dye molecules are formed as large particles and they are made smaller particles by grinding. But as they are water insoluble, they will give uneven dyeing if they are directly used in dye bath. So to ensure uniform and trouble- free dyeing the dye should be present in dye bath in an uniform very fine form and should give an stable dispersion. This is the reason for which a special chemical is used in dye bath, named dispersing agent. They should be effective under dyeing conditions. Stable to hard water, high temperature abd other dyeing assistants.
 For example, soa powder, Turky red oil, alkali sulphates, alkyle arylphonates etc are same surface active agent which are recommended as dispersing agents in disperse dyeing. 

Function of dispersing agent :                                                                                                           
1)      It assists in the process of partical size reduction of dye.
2)      It enables the dye to be formed in powder form.
3)      It facilitates the reconversion of the powder into a dispersion, which is required for dyeing.
4)      It maintain the dispersion in a fine form into dye bat throughout the process.
5)      It increase the solubility of disperse dyes in water.
6)      It affect on the rate of dyein.